MONTE ALBAN

This Thursday will be January 14. So, may I be the first to wish a very Happy Birthday to…ME! I guess I’ll celebrate with a restaurant review. What a novel idea.

Usually after taping my show, Karen’s Restaurant Revue, in Santa Monica, some of my pals in the audience and I would go out to eat to wind-down. For a period of time, our destination of choice was George E. Wong’s, a little Chinese place in a strip mall on Santa Monica Blvd., because we were cuckoo for their unique potato wontons. I’ve never been back to that location since they closed.

But recently, I had good reason to return: for a casual, relaxing dinner at Monte Alban, the Oaxacan restaurant that’s been there for about a dozen years. I’ve always assumed it was owned by some guy named Monte! Mi malo; Monte Alban is actually an ancient city (and archaeological site) in Oaxaca, (pronounced wuh-hah-kuh,) a state in the southern part of Mexico. The subject is really fascinating, so I heavily suggest you do your own research before dining at this fun eatery. It’ll really add to the experience. Luckily for me, I was with two intelligent guy friends, who were all over the info.

Monte Alban owner Ofelia Becerra (right) with teen-age daughter Jenny

And guess what my favorite dish was? The molotes, which are sort-of Mexican versions of my late, lamented potato wontons! They instantly brought the location full circle for me. More on their special cuisine in a sec, but first I must tell you that Ofelia Becerra is one of the nicest, most pleasant, least-stressed restaurant owners I’ve ever met! I wish she didn’t work so much because she would be my new best friend. But for all of your sakes, I’m glad she’s at the helm.

The menu here is a foodie’s dream. It’s giant, and inexpensive, too. There’s something for all tastes, even picky mine. And the authentic, low-lit, muraled ambience is also perfect for everyone–couples, families, first dates.

We were impressed with all the food. But this is the first time I don’t miss doing my show anymore, because I wouldn’t want to pronounce all these dishes on-air! We started with the consommé ranchero, a “four-alarm” soup that Jeff said was “off the hook!” If you’re a wimp like me, be sure to order it without jalapenos. I loved it that way, and trust me, being from Brooklyn, I’ve had more than my fair share of chicken soup.

Lou wanted me to make sure to give “honorable mention” to the guacamole, and touted the white rice to be “among the best” he’s ever had. (And he’s my rice expert–how many other restaurant critics can boast that?!) He actually had finished the rice and beans before Jeff and I even knew the plate had arrived at the table! No lie. He also said the horchata, (rice beverage,) is an “awesome house blend,” which winds-up as a sort-of sorbet if you let it sit for awhile. And Lou knows his horchata! I don’t bring him along just for his looks, don’t cha know.

We enjoyed all the mole sauces, which are their specialties, (along with goat tacos, but none of us were brave enough for those.) Some other favorites were the carnes monte alban, and the clayuda, which can be classified as a Mexican pizza.

The shrimp volcan oaxaqueno with rice and beans

But the piece de resistance (sorry to switch to French for a second there) was the volcan oaxaqueno with shrimp. You have to see it to believe it. It’s broth bubbling out of a legged earthen bowl and is brimming with shrimp, cactus, salsa, avocado, “and more,” as the menu states. It does bring to mind a mini volcano.

We finished off with what Lou deemed “damn good flan,” though they serve ice cream with tequila! There’s just so much three people can consume on one visit. But I know we’ll be back. Maybe next time, we’ll go for their breakfast, which features a cabinet of pan dulce, which is sweets all Oaxacans seem to know about. Maybe we’ll even stick a candle in one and sing “Feliz Cumpleaños” to me! As long as no one adds, “Qué edad tienes ahora?”

11929 Santa Monica Blvd. West Los Angeles 310-444-7736 www.restaurantemontealban.com